Edward Smith, Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group, 羞羞视频 (羞羞视频), Leicester, UK

Dr Edward Smith

Job: Senior Lecturer

Faculty: Arts, Design and Humanities

School/department: School of Fashion and Textiles

Research group(s): Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Address: Vijay Patel Design Wing VP5.22, 羞羞视频, Leicester, LE1 9BH

T: +44 (0) 116 207 8372

E: esmith@dmu.ac.uk

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Personal profile

Textile Chemistry
Textile Biotechnology
Natural fibres (bast fibres and wool)
Dyeing and finishing
Antimicrobial textile testing

Research group affiliations

Textile Engineering and Materials (TEAM) Research Group

Research and Innovation Institute - Art, Design and Performance (Full Member)

Publications and outputs

dc.title: Extraction of wool polypeptides using L-cysteine and protease: a study of the successive hydrolysis of the fibres鈥� regions dc.contributor.author: Belbeoch, Clemence; Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward dc.description.abstract: Wool is a natural fibre with a diversity of applications in the textile industry. Its nature as a protein-rich fibre constituted of several distinct but interrelated regions, confers its unique mechanical properties. Due to the competition with superfine wools and the emergence of synthetic alternatives, coarser wools from the Northern hemisphere have suffered from a lack of valorising paths. Recently, studies successfully extracted wool polypeptides using sulphur-based reducing agents, such as sodium sulphite. These methods can separate fibres from textile blends for recycling purposes. In addition, the different wool protein types could be isolated to explore their post-consumer valorisation into new applications. In this study, the effectiveness of the amino acid, L-cysteine, as a sustainable reducing agent, combined with the activity of a protease on wool hydrolysis and proteins鈥� extraction was assessed, under different concentrations of L-cysteine and enzyme and duration of the reaction. Understanding the chronological order of the wool regions鈥� lysis during the extraction process is crucial for the control of specific parameters to selectively recover microfibrils or matrix proteins 鈥� which exhibit different protein structures. This selective recovery of the different wool proteins could support their regeneration into innovative materials, for applications in composites, packaging or construction. dc.description: The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
dc.title: Sustainable Adire: Crafting Social and Ecological Innovation dc.contributor.author: Lerpiniere, Claire; Smith, Edward; Odu, Zara; Madu, Ifebuche; Belbeoch, Clemence dc.description.abstract: This report provides a new model for the Adire wax-resist dyeing process, which remains grounded in generations of indigenous heritage and practice, but looks forward to the potential opportunities for a new generation of dyeing. It sits at the intersection of cultural heritage and textile dyeing practices, drawing on knowledge systems, motifs, and community expertise rooted in Nigeria's cultural and creative history. A critical issue identified is the reliance on vat dyeing, which, despite its historical significance and colourfast properties, presents environmental, safety, and operational challenges. These include using a high concentration of a strong alkali, usually sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and a reducing agent, usually sodium dithionite (hydros), which post ecological and safety risks, and a high volume of polluting effluent containing coloured particles from unreacted dye. In this report, we highlight how the Afrikstabel dyehouse, led by Ms Ifebuche Madu, is an exemplar of how culturally-significant heritage textiles printing and dyeing can produce a luxurious and high quality garment. Afrikstabel achieves this whilst innovating with the latest dye filtration techniques, and pivoting towards a new method of dyeing for the Adire process, which retains colourfastness and high motif quality. The purpose of this report is to share findings among dyers, to offer potential for collective action and shared infrastructure. Understanding the process in detail is critical to identifying entry points for environmental improvement that do not compromise the cultural and economic value of the craft.
dc.title: Peroxidase-catalyzed Coloration for Fabric Design with Color Patterns dc.contributor.author: Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Lerpiniere, Claire; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: Biotechnology using enzymes has been explored in textile wet processing for the potential of reducing energy and water consumption, due to the use of the highly specific biocatalysts that can operate under mild temperature and neutral pH conditions. The current research study contributes to an understanding of the use of the enzyme peroxidase for textile coloration of wool fabrics as an alternative coloration method to using conventional dyestuffs. Peroxidases, belonging to the enzyme group of oxidoreductases, can catalyze oxidation of a wide range of colorless simple aromatic compounds as precursors to form polymeric colorants. This enzymatic coloration can be successfully applied to in-situ dyeing of wool fabrics at a low temperature through peroxidase catalysis of various precursors over a broad range of pH values to achieve a diverse color palette. To explore the potential of enzymatic coloration for fabric design, a woven wool base fabric was embroidered using computer-controlled embroidery machines with embroidery yarns of different fiber types and subsequently enzymatically dyed to create color patterns. Peroxidase-catalyzed coloration has the potential not only as an alternative coloration process to create design patterns of fabrics, but also for saving energy and preventing fiber damage during the dyeing process. dc.description: The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
dc.title: Development of biotechnology for recycling and reuse of wool blended textile waste materials dc.contributor.author: Shen, Jinsong; Akonda, Mahmudul; Smith, Edward; Prajapati, Chetna D. dc.description.abstract: The rapid growth of textile consumption demands greater use of resources and enormous amounts of energy and water for producing virgin materials and processing into textiles. This results in the depletion of natural non-renewable resources and contributes significantly to carbon emissions, which is unsustainable. The new challenge facing the global textiles industry is to develop technologies for upcycling, recycling, and reuse of textile waste to achieve textile circularity. Blended fabrics have proved difficult to recycle due to fibres being intimately blended and the lack of innovation to enable effective separation of different fibre components, so blended textiles waste often end up in either landfill or incineration. Enzyme-based biotechnology has demonstrated its potential to provide innovative solutions to improve textile performance properties and reduce the negative impact of textile production on the environment. In this current research, enzyme-based biotechnology processes were explored for recycling and reuse of wool/synthetics and wool/bast fibre blended fabrics from post-consumer and/or manufacturing waste streams. Individual fibre components were separated and recovered for re-processing back into yarns for fabric production. Bast fibres such as flax and hemp fibres are regarded as sustainable fibres for textiles due to requiring almost no water or pesticides during cultivation. Recycling and reuse of bast fibres from waste textile materials could not only contribute towards diverting land use for other types of farming, saving energy and water from processing, and also meet the increasing demand for the supply of bast fibres for different sectors. The research work also demonstrates the potential to recover dyes from waste textiles and their reuse for textile coloration. These research outcomes demonstrate potential opportunities to reduce the environmental impact of textile production and support the global textile industry transition to a circular system.
dc.title: Development of enzyme-based bioprocesses for recycling and reuse of wool blended fabrics to support the textiles industry transition to a circular system dc.contributor.author: Shen, Jinsong; Akonda, Mahmudul; Smith, Edward; Prajapati, Chetna D. dc.description.abstract: There are constant demands to reduce the negative impact to the environment of textile materials through being more sustainable and recyclable. The new challenge facing the global textiles industry is to develop technologies for upcycling, recycling, and reuse of textile waste to achieve textile circularity. Blended fabrics have proved difficult to recycle due to fibres being intimately blended and the lack of innovation to enable separation of different fibre components, so blended textiles often end up being disposed in landfills or by incineration. Enzyme-based biotechnology has demonstrated its potential to provide innovative solutions to improve textile performance properties and reduce the negative impact of textile production on the environment. In this current research, enzyme-based biotechnology processes were explored for recycling and reuse of wool/bast fibre blended fabrics from post-consumer and/or manufacturing waste streams. Individual fibre components were separated and recovered for re-processing back into yarns for fabric production. Bast fibres are regarded as sustainable fibres for textiles due to requiring almost no water or pesticides during cultivation. Recycling and reuse of bast fibres from waste textile materials could contribute towards saving land for other types of farming, saving energy and water from processing. The current research has also demonstrated the potential to extract and reuse dyes from waste textiles for textile coloration. These research outcomes demonstrate potential opportunities to reduce the environmental impact of textile production and support the global textile industry transition to a circular system.
dc.title: Peroxidase-catalysed coloration for fabric design with colour patterns dc.contributor.author: Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Lerpiniere, Claire; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: Biotechnology using enzymes has been explored in textile wet processing for potential of reducing chemical, energy and water consumption, due to being highly specific biocatalysts that can operate under mild temperature and neutral pH conditions. The current research study contributes to an understanding of the use of the enzyme peroxidase for textile coloration of wool fabrics as an alternative coloration method to using conventional dyestuff. Peroxidases, belonging to the enzyme group of oxidoreductases, can catalyse oxidation of a wide range of colourless simple aromatic compounds as precursors to form polymeric colourants. This enzymatic coloration can be successfully applied to in-situ dyeing of wool fabrics at a low temperature through peroxidase catalysis of various precursors to achieve a diverse colour palette. It was found that peroxidase can be active over a broad range of pH values to catalyse the synthesis of colourants, resulting in successful coloration of wool fabrics with various colour shades. Peroxidase catalysed coloration of wool fabrics has the potential not only as an alternative coloration process, but also by saving energy and preventing wool fibre damage. To explore the potential of enzymatic coloration for fabric design, colour patterns on fabrics were created using techniques including tie-dyeing and embroidery. Jacquard woven fabrics with different fibre yarns can also show unique colour patterns from subsequent enzymatic dyeing.
dc.title: Enzyme-based textile coloration dc.contributor.author: Prajapati, Chetna; Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: Textile coloration is typically characterised as a resource intensive production process that requires the use of large amounts of water, high concentrations of processing chemicals, high temperatures and long processing times, commonly resulting in high energy consumption and effluent waste. Consequently, this has led to rethinking approaches to textile coloration. The research presented gives an overview of current studies that investigated the use of two specific oxidoreductase enzymes, laccase (EC 1.10.3.2) and peroxidase (EC1.11.1.7) to develop a one-step coloration process. Both enzymes are capable of polymerising simple aromatic compounds to form colorants with the potential for textile coloration through the formation of conjugated chromophores via their distinctive catalytic oxidation and coupling/polymerization mechanism. A diverse gamut of hues were achieved on a range of different fibre types (flax, wool and nylon) through enzymatic catalysis of various aromatic compounds as laccase or peroxidase substrates or precursors and alteration of processing parameters such as buffer systems, pH values and reaction times. Enzymatically dyed fabrics were tested against commercial standards, resulting in reasonably good colour fastness to wash. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase and peroxidase as transformative tools to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile coloration industry transition towards a sustainable future.
dc.title: New Approaches for Textile Colouration and Surface Pattern Using Enzyme-based Biotechnology dc.contributor.author: Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong dc.description.abstract: The research presented in this paper gives an overview of a study which was undertaken to investigate the potential offered by the enzyme laccase (EC.1.10.3.2) as a creative design tool for innovative coloration and decorative surface pattern of textiles with a focus on providing sustainable alternatives to conventional processes used in industry. Research was conducted in two parts. The control (scientific) phase explored laccases potential for transforming a range of colourless aromatic compounds into coloured polymeric products via its reaction mechanism, and its ability to facilitate the coloration of most commonly used textile fibre types. Reaction processing parameters such as temperature, pH values, aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated to achieve a diverse colour palette, ranging from light - medium to dark shades of blue, green, pink, purple and yellow hues. Wool and nylon fibre types were found to be most suitable for laccase-catalysed coloration. The creative phase investigated the design potential offered by the enzymatic coloration process developed; different and contrasting substantivity properties offered by various fibre types were exploited to produce shadow, reserve, and contrasting coloured effects on specially woven jacquard fabrics. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase as a transformative tool to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile industry transition towards a sustainable future. dc.description: The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
dc.title: Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology dc.contributor.author: Rissanen, Marja; Schlapp-Hackl, Inge; Sawada, Daisuke; Raiskio, Susanna; Ojha, Krishna; Smith, Edward; Sixta, Herbert dc.description.abstract: The chemical recycling of hemp fabric into high-tenacity man-made cellulose fibres was demonstrated. The fabric was laundered 25 and 50 times to mimic the wear cycles of post-consumer textile waste. Despite the launderings, the molar mass of the material was still too high for recycling via dry-jet-wet spinning. Thus, the fabrics were treated with an aqueous sulfuric acid solution to adjust the intrinsic viscosity to the targeted level of 400鈥�500 ml/g. The acid hydrolysed sample was dissolved in 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-enium acetate and man-made cellulose fibres were regenerated by dry-jet-wet spinning. The properties of hemp and regenerated fibres were determined by tensile testing, birefringence measurements, and X-ray diffraction. Regenerated fibres were spun into yarn and knitted into a fabric. The tensile properties of the yarn and the abrasion and pilling resistance of the fabric were determined. Regenerated fibres showed a higher modulus of toughness (55.9 MPa) compared with hemp fibres (28.7 MPa). The fineness and staple length uniformity of regenerated fibres resulted in a high yarn structure evenness, a yarn tenacity of 28.1 cN/tex, and an elongation at break of 7.5%. Due to the even fabric structure, the fabric from regenerated fibres showed higher abrasion resistance than the hemp fabric. dc.description: open access article
dc.title: The Evaluation of Orthotics in Reducing Hallux Valgus Angle in Patients with Hallux Valgus over a Twelve-Month Treatment dc.contributor.author: Li, Guoli; Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward; Patel, Chetna dc.description.abstract: Background: Hallux valgus (HV) is one of the most common forefoot deformities among females, and its prevalence increases with age. This study aims to evaluate the effectiveness of three different types of orthotics on the reduction in hallux valgus angle (HVA) for patients with mild and moderate hallux valgus deformities. Methods: Twenty-six patients (42 feet) with mild or moderate HV participated in the treatment with three types of orthotics in the current study. Patients were divided into three groups depending on their HV severities and the consideration of different function of the orthotics. Orthotic Type 1 is a biomechanical style orthotic applied to moderated HV in Group 1. Orthotic Type 2 is a wrap style orthotic used on mild and moderate HV with two sub-groups: mild HV in Group 2A and moderate HV in Group 2B. Orthotic Type 3 is a gel style orthotic for mild HV. Patients were required to wear the orthotics for between 6 and 8 h per night over a period of 12 months. The HVA was measured every 3 weeks using a newly designed Measuring Block. A paired t-test was used to compare the differences between initial and final HVA at different stages of HVA treatment with orthotics. Results: After the 12-month treatment, for moderate HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 1, their HVA reduced by 5.05 degree (95% CI 1.37, 8.73), (p < 0.05). For moderate HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 2, their HVA reduced by 1.2 degree (95% CI -0.71, 3.11) (p > 0.05). For mild HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 2, their HVA reduced by 2.44 degree (95% CI 1.39, 3.49) (p < 0.05). For mild HV patients treated with the Orthotic Type 3, their HVA reduced by 3.08 degree (95% CI -0.68, 6.83) (p > 0.05). Conclusions: Orthotic Type 1 showed a consistent significance in reduction in the HVA during the 12-month treatment, so it could be recommended for treating moderate HV. Orthotic Type 2 reduced the HVA, but it did not show a consistent significance in reduction in the HVA for mild and moderate HV. Orthotic Type 3 reduced the HVA, but it showed a volatile trend during 12 months without significant differences. dc.description: open access article

Key research outputs

Selected Publications:

Belbéoch C, Shen J, Smith E. (2026) Extraction of wool polypeptides using L-cysteine and protease: a study of the successive hydrolysis of the fibres’ regions, Process Biochemistry, 162: 105-114
Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J. (2023) New approaches for textile coloration and surface pattern using enzyme-based biotechnology, Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice (RFTD) 11 (3): 213-236
Rissanen M, Schlapp-Hackl I, Sawada D, Raiskio S, Ojha K, Smith E, Sixta H. (2023) Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology, Textile Research Journal, 93 (11-12): 2545-2557.
Netithammakorn N, Smith E, Lerpiniere C, Shen J (2021) Peroxidase-catalysed coloration of wool fabrics, Coloration Technology, 137 (2): 93-107.
Harwood R, Smith E (2020), ‘Testing of natural textile fibres’ in Handbook of Natural Fibres Volume 1: Types, Properties and Factors Affecting Breeding and Cultivation, 2nd Edition (Edited by R M Kozlowski and M Mackiewicz-Talarczyk), Elsevier Ltd, England. pp 535-576.
Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2019) Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning, Journal of Cleaner Production, 211: 909-921.
Prajapati C, Smith E, Kane F, Shen J (2018),Laccase-catalysed coloration of wool and nylon, Coloration Technology, 2018, 134, 423-439.
Yuan M, Wang Q, Shen J, Smith E, Bai R, Fan X. (2018), Enzymatic coloration and finishing of wool with laccase and polyethylenimine, Textile Research Journal, 88 (16) 1834-1846.
Shen J, Smith E, Chizyuka M, Prajapati C (2017), Development of durable shrink-resist coating of wool with sol-gel polymer processing, Fibers and Polymers, 18(9), 1769-1779.
Shen J, Smith E (2015), 'Enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing' in the book, Sustainable apparel: production, processing and recycling (Edited by R Blackburn), Woodhead Publishing Ltd, England. pp 119-134

- Smith E, Shen J. (2012) Enzymatic treatment of wool pre-treated with cetyltrimethylammonium bromide to achieve machine washability. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 30 (1), pp. 38-47
- Smith E, Shen J. (2011) Surface modification of wool with protease extracted polypeptides. Journal of Biotechnology 156: 134-140
- Smith E, Farrand B, Shen J. (2010), The removal of lipid from the surface of wool to promote the subsequent enzymatic process with modified protease for wool shrink resistance. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation 28: 329-338
- Smith E, Schroeder M, Guebitz G, Shen J. (2010), Covalent bonding of protease to different sized enteric polymers and their potential use in wool processing. Enzyme and Microbial Technology 47:105-111
- Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter P. (2010), Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, In: Medical and Healthcare Textiles: Proceedings of the Fourth International Conference on Healthcare and Medical Textiles. editors. Kennedy JF, Anand SC, Miraftab M, Rajendran S. Woodhead Textile Series No. 75. ISBN 1845692241
- Smith E, Zhang Q, Shen J, Schroeder M, Silva C. (2008) Modification of Esperase by covalent bonding to Eudragit polymers L 100 and S 100 for wool fibre surface treatment. Biocatalysis and Biotransformation, 26 (5), 391-398.

Research interests/expertise

Current research interests include:

Chemical processing of bast fibre (flax and hemp) and developing analytical techniques in assessing fibre quality of both feedstock and processed fibre.
Chemical modification of enzymes and processing to improve the performance of wool fibre/ fabric.
Enzyme coloration of textiles.
Application of enzyme biotechnology for recycling, reuse and recovery of fibres and dyes from textile waste.
Functional finishing of textiles.

Areas of teaching

Textile coloration
Properties, structure, identification and analysis of textile fibres and yarns
Textile sustainability

Qualifications

PhD in Colour and Polymer Chemistry (University of Leeds)
MSc in Conservation Science ( 羞羞视频, Leicester)
BSc (Hons) in Chemistry (University of East Anglia, Norwich)

Courses taught

Currently teach and supervise in the following modules:

FBUY 1103/1104: Design & Development/ Fashion Business: Textile Materials: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns
FTEX 1002: Explore Materials Construction: Coloration and Fibres & Yarns
FBUY 3102: Research Project
FMAN 3003: Research Project
SITT 5001: Textile Technology and Sustainability
SITT 5003: Product Performance
SITT 5004/5005: MSc Major Project

Membership of external committees

Publications Award Committee (PAC) member of the Society of Dyers & Colourists (SDC) since 2022

Membership of professional associations and societies

Royal Society of Chemistry – Associate Member (AMRSC)

Projects

Research Projects involved in within TEAM Research at 羞羞视频

Project co-lead: Scaling-up bioprocesses for fibre separation of mixed waste for circularity (BBSRC Follow-on Fund) - February 2026 to January 2028.

Researcher: Advanced nanoengineered treatment of textiles: PFAS-free amphiphobicity (EPSRC) – September 2025 to February 2028.

UK lead / consultant: Preserving Nigeria’s Cultural Textiles Heritage Through Sustainable Adire Technology (Innovate UK Business Connect Global Innovation Network: Global Alliance Africa Lead Customer Programme) – October 2024 to March 2025.

Principal Investigator: AKT with Stephen Walters & Sons Limited (UKRI Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3) – October 2024 to February 2025.

Associate: AKT with Generation Phoenix (UKRI Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3) - October 2024 to February 2025.

Co-Investigator/Associate: Reusable period products supporting the UK human and natural environment for health and wellbeing (AHRC – Design Exchange partnerships: design the green transition: round 2) – February 2024 to January 2025.

Researcher: ENZBIOTEX - Approaches of enzyme-based biotechnology to achieve textiles recovery and reuse for circularity (BBSRC) – February 2023 to January 2025.

Researcher: Development of enzyme-based coloration and coating for sustainable machine washable wool to support the wool industry transition to a circular system (BBNET POC) – October 2021 to September 2022.

Project lead / consultant: Process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre processing for non-woven and textile applications (Commercial funded by Bast Fibre Technologies Inc) – ongoing since September 2020.

Research supervision: LEBIOTEX - Laser Enhanced Biotechnology for Textile Design: 3D Colour and Surface Patterning (AHRC) - July 2012 to June 2015.

Project lead / consultant: Fibre optimisation and analysis (Commercial funded by NuMax Fibre Technology) – November 2011 to September 2015.

Project lead / consultant: CRAiLAR Flax Process Optimisation (Commercial funded by CRAiLAR Technologies Inc.) – September 2010 to July 2015

Researcher/ research supervision: SAFEPROTEX – High-Protective Clothing for Complex Emergency Operation (EU FP7) - September 2010 to September 2013.

Principal Investigator/ Innovation Fellow: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (EMDA & EDRF Innovation Fellowship) – March 2010 to August 2010.

Principal Investigator/ Innovation Fellow: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool (EMDA Innovation Fellowship) – March 2009 to August 2009.

Researcher: ENZUP – Enzyme Up-grading of Wool Fibres (EU FP6) - January 2007 to September 2008.

Researcher: SMARTEX – The provision of in-depth technical textile research and development resources with business support required implementing specific innovations within textile companies in Leicestershire (LeicesterShire Economic Partnerships) – June 2005 to December 2006.

Researcher: PROTEX - Modified Proteases for the Reduction of Felting and Shrinkage of Wool Textiles (EU FP5) – August 2004 to August 2005.

Conference attendance

Presenter (Oral):

Smith E., Flax and Linseed Research, BBSRC funded Industry-Academic workshop on “Improving the sustainability of UK agriculture with flax/linseed”, 16th-17th January 2023, Durham,UK

Smith E, Shen J. Surface treatment of wool to achieve hydrophilic fibre and the effect on subsequent dyeing and protease treatment, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, 8th -12th June, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Smith E, Shen J. Treatment of wool with enzyme extracted wool polypeptide to achieve shrink resistance, 7th International Conference on Polymer and Textile Biotechnology, 2nd – 4th March, 2011, Milan, Italy.

Smith E, Williams JT, Walsh SE, Painter, P. Comparison of antimicrobial textile treatments, 4th International Conference and Exhibition on Healthcare and Medical Textiles (MEDTEX’07),16th – 18th July 2007, Bolton, UK.

Smith, E., Comparison of antimicrobial textile test methods, International Biodeterioration Research Group (IBRG) textiles section meeting, 27th October 2006, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Poster presentations:

Smith E, Zhang Q, Farrand B, Kokol V, Shen J. The development of a bio-scouring process for raw wool using protease, International Conference on Eco-Dyeing/ Finishing and Green Chemistry, June 8-12, 2011, Hangzhou, China.

Consultancy work

Consultancies undertaken:

Current ongoing commercial consultancy (since September 2020) with Bast Fibre Technologies Inc (BFTI) focussing on the process optimisation, fibre evaluation and feedstock augmentation of bast fibre (hemp & flax) processing for non-woven and textile applications
Past commercial consultancy work with CRAiLAR Technologies focussing on bast fibre processing research, development and analysis and with NuMax Fibre Technology and Camira Fabrics focussing on fibre analysis.

Current research students

Mutinta Chizyuka (PhD awarded in 2016), “Development of sol-gel technology for textile surface coating to achieve self-cleaning and antibacterial properties” (2^nd Supervisor)

Chetna Prajapati (PhD awarded in 2017), “Biotechnology for textile design: 3D colour and surface patterning” (2^nd Supervisor)

Guoli Li (PhD awarded in 2019), "The effectiveness of orthotics in reducing the hallux valgus angle for patients with mild and moderate hallux valgus", (2^nd Supervisor)

Nalinee Netithammakorn (PhD awarded in 2021), "Bioprocessing of wool and flax textile materials", (2^nd Supervisor)

James Stewart (PhD candidate) “Upcycling of Post-Consumer Food Packaging Materials”, (2^nd Supervisor)

Eden Coe-Jenkins (PhD candidate) “Enzyme-mediated breakdown of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)” (2^nd supervisor)

Megan Melhuish (PhD candidate) “Hygiene Control for reuseable sanitary products, exploring product safety and development management” (2^nd supervisor)

Worku Molla (PhD candidate) "Recycling and reuse of waste wool" (2^nd Supervisor)

Externally funded research grants information

Research & Innovation Grant Funded Projects:

Funder: BBSRC Follow-on Fund

Project: Scaling-up bioprocesses for fibre separation of mixed waste for circularity

Role: Project co-lead

Dates: February 2026 to January 2028

Funder: Innovate UK Accelerated Knowledge Transfer 3 (AKT3)

Project: 羞羞视频 and Stephen Walters & Sons Limited

Role: Project lead

Dates: October 2024 to February 2025

Funder: Innovate UK Business Connect Global Innovation Network: Global Alliance Africa Lead Customer Programme

Project: Preserving Nigeria’s Cultural Textiles Heritage Through Sustainable Adire Technology

Role: UK lead

Dates: October 2024 to March 2025

Funder: East Midlands Development Agency (EMDA) and European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Innovation Fellowship

Project: Optimisation of Enzyme Processing of Wool – Follow up (HIRF 447F)